Tsitsikamma Hiking Trail
We couldn’t miss out on walking this well known trail, located at the start of South Africa’s spectacular garden route as you head towards Cape Town, 35km east of Plettenberg Bay in the Eastern Cape. The Tsitsikamma Hiking Trail was originally developed during the 1970’s by the Department of Water Affairs and Foresty to promote hiking trails in South Africa. It is a 5 day hike covering a total distance of 61 kilometres now managed by MTO Forestry (PTY) LTD. We were impressed with the safety information provided by MTO Forestry. One of the hazards are the many river crossings along the trail that can be a danger during rainy periods. As it turned out we had chosen a month to walk the trail that has the 3rd highest average monthly rainfall of 102mm per month. For this reason we paid attention to the safety information, in particular where the escape routes were and where on the trail we could get cell phone reception.
We based ourselves at the Tsitsikamma Backpackers which is a very comfortable upmarket establishment in the Stormsriver Village. The staff, were super friendly and helpful. Because we stayed a night prior to starting the trek, we were able to leave our vehicle on the premises while walking the trail. The backpackers also provided transport to where we started the trail, approximately 6km from the start where the R102 intersects the trail at Covie. Our starting point excluded Kalander Hut, the first hut of 5 Huts along the trail.
Day 1
Michelle from the Tsitsikamma Backpackers dropped us off on the trail just before 9.30am with some friendly advice that if we should get lost we must phone for help sooner than later and not wait until dark when it would be difficult for rescuers to find us. With that she kindly provided her cell phone number and that of her partner who she said was a trained medic and I think a volunteer rescuer. This was a great boost to our confidence as we watched Michelle disappear out of sight on the R102. As we were adjusting our backpacks a troop of Vervet monkeys passed above us in the trees, pausing to look at us before also disappearing into the thick foliage of the forest. We were now on our own and we started along the trail...........
The weather was mostly sunny with a bit of cloud about. We only had about 10.6km to get to Bloukrans Hut as we had cut off 6km due to our starting point. In normal circumstances today’s walk would be the longest day of walking. Soon we were heading uphill through indigenous forests until we came out on top of a plateau and wound our way along the trail inland away from the sea. The last 2 km along a 4 wheel drive track was slow going as the sun was warm and we were no longer in the cool shady forest. What impressed us all, was some of the trees along the trail were identified with small tags on their trunks and this was somewhat unique to any trails previously done elsewhere. Throughout the trail we came across an assortment of indigenous trees that included, Yellowwood, Stinkwood, Ironwood, Saffron, Assegai, Cape Beech, Red Alder and Knobwood. We arrived at Bloukrans Hut at 12:50pm. It was an impressive 2 roomed wooden cabin perched on the edge of a cliff looking across a ravine towards the distant mountains. Each room had 12 bunks with mattresses and we found the 1 room had backpacks and some supplies stored in it. We chose the unoccupied room, realising that a group had probably used the service offered by MTO at a cost, whereby they take all your equipment ahead in a 4 wheel drive and leave it at the hut prior to your arrival. They then collect your stuff in the morning and take it on to the next Hut. We recall having read about this service but like most hardened trekkers, we felt this to not to be in the true spirit of trekking. Perhaps this philosophy may be reviewed in a few years time. On further exploring we found a separate ablution block nearby that had 2 flushing toilets and 2 cold showers. What luxury, so it wasn’t long before all of us had braved the cold showers and washed away the days sweat.
About an hour and a half after we had arrived, the group belonging to the equipment stowed away in the 1 room arrived. They were 6 people consisting of 3 adults and 3 youngsters aged about 16 to 18 years. They were to be with us each evening for the duration of the trail as they were also doing the complete trail. We never saw them whilst walking as we were always on our way in the morning before them, but in some ways it was reassuring having another group around in case the weather turned bad and we needed to work out survival strategies. We later discovered that each hut had 2 or more rooms so we always had a room to ourselves which was great.
Day 2
The next morning we were up early as part of our plan to avoid the warmer part of the day. Today’s trek to Keurbos Hut was 13.4km and documented as being easy going. We were on the trail at 7:15am, with clear skies and a rather coolish start to the day. From experience we knew that after 15 minutes of walking we would soon be warm and avoided the temptation of adding a layer of clothing that we would have to shed, by dropping our backpacks and delaying us further. I am always pleased when I see clear skies as it holds the promise of me getting some decent photos along the way and on this particular trek the many river crossings were potential hazards in heavy rain. It was a great day of walking and certainly easy going with some brilliant varying scenery. We arrived at Keurbos Hut at 1pm and found the design of the hut very similar to the Bloukrans Hut. Again the 1 room had been occupied by the equipment of our fellow trekking group so we occupied the other room. Again we treated ourselves to an ice cold shower shortly before the arrival of the other group. We then snacked on crackers and cheese that has become one of our customary snacks on completion of our days trek. That evening we feasted on roast lamb and vegetables! That is dehydrated roast lamb, which was pretty tasty, before retiring to the comfortable mattresses on our bunk beds. True luxury!
Day 3
Today we had a 13.4km trek to Heuningbos Hut. According to the documentation it would be more difficult than the previous day, so we were on the trail at 6.30am. It was just getting light and it was cloudy above. At one point we were making a steep climb when the mist came in and we had some light rain. The mist soon lifted and we had some sunshine for part of the way to enjoy the great scenery. It was not a great day for photographs and with rain about my camera remained in its case wrapped in plastic. The terrain was slower going with some roots and large boulders to negotiate along the way. At 1pm we arrived at Heuningbos Hut a little exhausted and the undulating terrain had caused some discomfort to my knees. It was a much cooler day so there was no chance of me braving the freezing cold showers also available at this hut. Our fellow hikers were not far behind us and we settled in for a restful afternoon in the hut that had a great outlook from where it was located.
Day 4
Today was to be our longest day with a trek of 14.2km to Sleepkloof Hut. This was the last hut on the trail and it was only about 3km from the end of the trail. Again we were up early and on the trail at 6.40pm. It was a clear day and we were now confident of not having any raging rivers preventing us from finishing the trail as we knew there were no rivers to negotiate on the last day, being Day 5. Today’s walk was the most scenic of the all the days and I had an enjoyable time clicking away with my camera. The walk was easier going and with only about 5km to go the clouds came in from behind us. We were on a high saddle when the wind hit us. It was that strong it was difficult to walk and we picked up the pace realising that as we descended we would probably be protected from the wind. We were soon out of the wind but kept moving fast so that we might get to the last hut before the rain. It was 12:30pm when we arrived at Sleepkloof Hut. As we were about 20 metres from the hut, the rain started and we were safely in the hut as it bucketed down. We hoped that our fellow hikers were not too far behind us. About 30 minutes later they walked in looking a little wet and cold. That evening felt unusually cold and we were later to discover that there had been some snow on the peaks of the mountains nearby.
Day 5
This day we only had about a 5km walk to the Storms River village where we would spend another evening at the Tsistskamma Backpackers. We had no alarms to get us up and it was great to have a leisurely start to the day. For the first time on the trail our fellow hikers departed the hut before us. We said our goodbyes and about 30 minutes later, just after 8:15am we left Sleepkloof Hut behind us. The last part of the trail followed a 4 wheel drive track down towards the ocean passing through a very green forested area. It was fresh but there were patches of blue sky around. We arrive at the N2 (national road along the Garden Route) at 9:40am and crossed to the other side where the 4 wheel drive track continued. At about 10:15am we walked into the main street of Storms River village where we indulged in a coffee and toasted bacon and egg jaffle. While sitting there my cell phone rang and it was Michelle from the Tsitsikamma Backpackers checking on our welfare and if we required a lift when we arrived in the village. I declined her kind offer and explained that we had arrived and from there it was about a kilometre walk to the backpackers. When we got to the backpackers we found our rental vehicle found in one piece and the friendly staff welcomed us back.
We found the Tsitsikamma Trail a wonderful trail with some spectacular scenery. It was also made more enjoyable by the very supportive staff at MTO Forestry, in particular, Graeme Pienaar who arranged for a map of the trail to be dropped off at one of the huts for us and the staff at Tsitsikamma Backpackers that looked after us before and after walking the trail. Thank you to all of you.......................
We based ourselves at the Tsitsikamma Backpackers which is a very comfortable upmarket establishment in the Stormsriver Village. The staff, were super friendly and helpful. Because we stayed a night prior to starting the trek, we were able to leave our vehicle on the premises while walking the trail. The backpackers also provided transport to where we started the trail, approximately 6km from the start where the R102 intersects the trail at Covie. Our starting point excluded Kalander Hut, the first hut of 5 Huts along the trail.
Day 1
Michelle from the Tsitsikamma Backpackers dropped us off on the trail just before 9.30am with some friendly advice that if we should get lost we must phone for help sooner than later and not wait until dark when it would be difficult for rescuers to find us. With that she kindly provided her cell phone number and that of her partner who she said was a trained medic and I think a volunteer rescuer. This was a great boost to our confidence as we watched Michelle disappear out of sight on the R102. As we were adjusting our backpacks a troop of Vervet monkeys passed above us in the trees, pausing to look at us before also disappearing into the thick foliage of the forest. We were now on our own and we started along the trail...........
The weather was mostly sunny with a bit of cloud about. We only had about 10.6km to get to Bloukrans Hut as we had cut off 6km due to our starting point. In normal circumstances today’s walk would be the longest day of walking. Soon we were heading uphill through indigenous forests until we came out on top of a plateau and wound our way along the trail inland away from the sea. The last 2 km along a 4 wheel drive track was slow going as the sun was warm and we were no longer in the cool shady forest. What impressed us all, was some of the trees along the trail were identified with small tags on their trunks and this was somewhat unique to any trails previously done elsewhere. Throughout the trail we came across an assortment of indigenous trees that included, Yellowwood, Stinkwood, Ironwood, Saffron, Assegai, Cape Beech, Red Alder and Knobwood. We arrived at Bloukrans Hut at 12:50pm. It was an impressive 2 roomed wooden cabin perched on the edge of a cliff looking across a ravine towards the distant mountains. Each room had 12 bunks with mattresses and we found the 1 room had backpacks and some supplies stored in it. We chose the unoccupied room, realising that a group had probably used the service offered by MTO at a cost, whereby they take all your equipment ahead in a 4 wheel drive and leave it at the hut prior to your arrival. They then collect your stuff in the morning and take it on to the next Hut. We recall having read about this service but like most hardened trekkers, we felt this to not to be in the true spirit of trekking. Perhaps this philosophy may be reviewed in a few years time. On further exploring we found a separate ablution block nearby that had 2 flushing toilets and 2 cold showers. What luxury, so it wasn’t long before all of us had braved the cold showers and washed away the days sweat.
About an hour and a half after we had arrived, the group belonging to the equipment stowed away in the 1 room arrived. They were 6 people consisting of 3 adults and 3 youngsters aged about 16 to 18 years. They were to be with us each evening for the duration of the trail as they were also doing the complete trail. We never saw them whilst walking as we were always on our way in the morning before them, but in some ways it was reassuring having another group around in case the weather turned bad and we needed to work out survival strategies. We later discovered that each hut had 2 or more rooms so we always had a room to ourselves which was great.
Day 2
The next morning we were up early as part of our plan to avoid the warmer part of the day. Today’s trek to Keurbos Hut was 13.4km and documented as being easy going. We were on the trail at 7:15am, with clear skies and a rather coolish start to the day. From experience we knew that after 15 minutes of walking we would soon be warm and avoided the temptation of adding a layer of clothing that we would have to shed, by dropping our backpacks and delaying us further. I am always pleased when I see clear skies as it holds the promise of me getting some decent photos along the way and on this particular trek the many river crossings were potential hazards in heavy rain. It was a great day of walking and certainly easy going with some brilliant varying scenery. We arrived at Keurbos Hut at 1pm and found the design of the hut very similar to the Bloukrans Hut. Again the 1 room had been occupied by the equipment of our fellow trekking group so we occupied the other room. Again we treated ourselves to an ice cold shower shortly before the arrival of the other group. We then snacked on crackers and cheese that has become one of our customary snacks on completion of our days trek. That evening we feasted on roast lamb and vegetables! That is dehydrated roast lamb, which was pretty tasty, before retiring to the comfortable mattresses on our bunk beds. True luxury!
Day 3
Today we had a 13.4km trek to Heuningbos Hut. According to the documentation it would be more difficult than the previous day, so we were on the trail at 6.30am. It was just getting light and it was cloudy above. At one point we were making a steep climb when the mist came in and we had some light rain. The mist soon lifted and we had some sunshine for part of the way to enjoy the great scenery. It was not a great day for photographs and with rain about my camera remained in its case wrapped in plastic. The terrain was slower going with some roots and large boulders to negotiate along the way. At 1pm we arrived at Heuningbos Hut a little exhausted and the undulating terrain had caused some discomfort to my knees. It was a much cooler day so there was no chance of me braving the freezing cold showers also available at this hut. Our fellow hikers were not far behind us and we settled in for a restful afternoon in the hut that had a great outlook from where it was located.
Day 4
Today was to be our longest day with a trek of 14.2km to Sleepkloof Hut. This was the last hut on the trail and it was only about 3km from the end of the trail. Again we were up early and on the trail at 6.40pm. It was a clear day and we were now confident of not having any raging rivers preventing us from finishing the trail as we knew there were no rivers to negotiate on the last day, being Day 5. Today’s walk was the most scenic of the all the days and I had an enjoyable time clicking away with my camera. The walk was easier going and with only about 5km to go the clouds came in from behind us. We were on a high saddle when the wind hit us. It was that strong it was difficult to walk and we picked up the pace realising that as we descended we would probably be protected from the wind. We were soon out of the wind but kept moving fast so that we might get to the last hut before the rain. It was 12:30pm when we arrived at Sleepkloof Hut. As we were about 20 metres from the hut, the rain started and we were safely in the hut as it bucketed down. We hoped that our fellow hikers were not too far behind us. About 30 minutes later they walked in looking a little wet and cold. That evening felt unusually cold and we were later to discover that there had been some snow on the peaks of the mountains nearby.
Day 5
This day we only had about a 5km walk to the Storms River village where we would spend another evening at the Tsistskamma Backpackers. We had no alarms to get us up and it was great to have a leisurely start to the day. For the first time on the trail our fellow hikers departed the hut before us. We said our goodbyes and about 30 minutes later, just after 8:15am we left Sleepkloof Hut behind us. The last part of the trail followed a 4 wheel drive track down towards the ocean passing through a very green forested area. It was fresh but there were patches of blue sky around. We arrive at the N2 (national road along the Garden Route) at 9:40am and crossed to the other side where the 4 wheel drive track continued. At about 10:15am we walked into the main street of Storms River village where we indulged in a coffee and toasted bacon and egg jaffle. While sitting there my cell phone rang and it was Michelle from the Tsitsikamma Backpackers checking on our welfare and if we required a lift when we arrived in the village. I declined her kind offer and explained that we had arrived and from there it was about a kilometre walk to the backpackers. When we got to the backpackers we found our rental vehicle found in one piece and the friendly staff welcomed us back.
We found the Tsitsikamma Trail a wonderful trail with some spectacular scenery. It was also made more enjoyable by the very supportive staff at MTO Forestry, in particular, Graeme Pienaar who arranged for a map of the trail to be dropped off at one of the huts for us and the staff at Tsitsikamma Backpackers that looked after us before and after walking the trail. Thank you to all of you.......................