Lesotho - Pony Trekking
Lesotho is a small country surrounded completely by South Africa. The Drakensburg mountain range acts as a natural border between the 2 countries in the province of Kwa-Zulu Natal where Durban is located. There is only one entry point into Lesotho from Kwa-Zulu Natal via a deteriorating gravel road that winds it’s way into Lesotho through Sani Pass. There are other entry points into Lesotho from other provinces within South Africa and I believe they are more accessible. The only way into Lesotho from where we had based ourselves after completing the Giants Cup Trail in the Drakensburg, was in a 4 wheel drive over Sani Pass. This is where “Drakensburg Adventures” comes into the picture. We booked our 4 day Pony Trekking trip with them and we were placed into their care and their landrover with a very competent guide, Dane Engelbrecht. I remember reading somewhere in their brochure on the internet that the 4 day pony trek was for the more experienced riders. Why we didn’t pay more attention to this minor little detail, is something I will never know. My last experience on a horse was at the age of 12 years when the horse decided to gallop off and I promptly fell off. Oh well, I had some experience, be it 5 minutes! I think the carrot for me was that we were to ride the ponies to the highest peak in Southern Africa, THABANA NTLENYANA (3482m), sleep 2 nights in local villages and 1 night in a Shepherds Hut (a MOTEBO).
Day 1
We were collected at Sani Lodge in the morning by Dane in a blue Landrover where we were camping and had based ourselves. We were the only participants for this pony trek. Our drive up Sani Pass through the NKOMOZANA valley offered us spectacular views along the windy road with many hair pin bends. Our first stop was the South African border post followed by the Lesotho Border Post about 5Km further up the pass. It was a cloudy day and when we got out at the Lesotho border post we were greeted by a chilly breeze and about 6 Cape Vultures circling nearby in the sky. Was this a warning sign of what was to come?
After a stop for lunch alongside Sani River not far from the border post, we continued further into Lesotho over Black Mountain Pass (KOFISEPHOLA – meaning ‘the cold place’) along a well worn gravel road. The scenery was rolling mountains scattered with small villages, cattle, sheep, goats and very friendly locals. We stopped at Mulomong Lodge in the afternoon and met our local guide, Jacob Bogang and the Basuto Ponies that would take us to our destination and back. We mounted our ponies and enjoyed about an hour’s ride into Libibing Village where Augustina, a teacher invited us into her home. We were first given tea and then a superb meal consisting of a fish stew, ground maize, potatoes, beans, carrots and a local green plant (pronounced Kotz-Kotz) that was similar in taste to spinach. This was washed down with some imported South African beer. After a visit to the long drop outside and display of a lightning storm in the distance with stars above us we were shown to our hut for the night where they had prepared 3 sleeping places on the floor with mattresses and blankets.
Day 2
After a good night’s sleep we were woken by a rooster that was obviously on Perth time. We had a pot of boiling water brought into our hut and enjoyed a coffee before venturing outside to watch the small African village waking up. At about 7:40am kids started exiting the huts dressed in their school uniforms and headed off in the direction of where the school was located. For inhabitants that have no electricity, flushing toilets or running water it was something else to see the kids wearing clean uniforms and polished black school shoes heading off to school with so much enthusiasm. Not long after the children had disappeared over a hill, our host Augustina said farewell and also headed off to the school where she was teaching on foot.
After some cereal for breakfast Jacob soon had the ponies saddled and we were on our way. We headed out of the village, over hills and eventually along the MAKHUPUNA VALLEY. The ponies were unbelievably sure footed up and down steep slopes, across rivers and on the edge of cliffs. My knees soon started to feel the strain of leaning back or forward to assist the pony as it tried not to lose its footing. The scenery along the way was breathtaking as we passed other small villages, shepherds with their goats and cattle and crops of maize and wheat cut into the steep slopes. Jacob pointed out a very healthy crop of cannabis growing on the slopes that is harvested and commonly smuggled into South Africa over the mountains. Sometimes the shepherds could be seen silhouetted against the skyline on cliff tops looking down on us passing them in the valley. As we went further into the valley we came across many Shepherd Huts (MOTEBO’s). Those that were being used often had 2 or more giant dogs tied to long ropes guarding the MOTEBO while the shepherd was away looking after the animals. Dane informed us that these dogs were vicious and although tied would not let anyone near the MOTEBO. Any dog that wasn’t tied was most likely a used for hunting and less of a threat for attacking someone. The shepherds we came across appeared friendly and always had time to chat with our guide Jacob. They were daunting in appearance wrapped in a dark blankets, wearing balaclavas, gum boots and carrying their traditional sticks decorated with colourful beads. I had the opportunity to hold one of these sticks made of a black wood and was surprised at how heavy they were. Late that afternoon we arrived at a MOTEBO that was to be ours for the night. When I slid off my pony, it took some time for me to walk properly due to the pain in my knees and legs. Now I know why John Wayne walked funny in those old Western movies. Nearby was another MOTEBO where both Dane and Jacob would sleep. The MOTEBOs are dark and small with an entrance so tiny I had difficulty in getting inside. After we had cleaned out the cattle dung that had somehow found its way into the MOTEBO we laid out a ground sheet on the hard mud floor and prepared our sleeping places. Our mattresses were made up of a blanket and sleeping bag. Dinner was some chicken pieces cooked the previous day by Jacob’s wife and traditional bread cooked in a pot. It was delicious and it was a great end to a fairly tiring days ride.
Day 3
The next morning we were up early so that we could get an early start to what was going to be a long day in the saddle. I was riddled with itchy bites and assumed that the fleas from the Shepherds dogs had found a new host. Neither Brigitte or Mabutsie had any bites. The weather was clear and after a coffee and some cereal we were in the saddle and on our way towards THABANA NTLENYANA ( meaning ‘pretty little mountain’) at 7:30am. At about 11am we got to the end of the valley at the base of THABANA NTLENYANA. There was no clear pathway up to the summit so we had to zig zag up the side to try and make it easier for the ponies to get us to the top. Once again I was impressed at the strength and sure footedness of these strong Basuto Ponies. At the summit we had 360 degree views, on the one side into South Africa and on the other side back into Lesotho. There was a fresh breeze while we had a light lunch and took in the incredible views. I was also pleased to rest my aching legs and the ponies were probably glad to have got rid of their riders for a while. When we headed back down we walked the ponies down the steep slope until we got to the flat section at the top of the valley. We got back into the saddles and were on our way back down the valley. At 6:30pm, as it was getting dark we arrived at MAKHUPUNA Village for the night. I slid off my pony in agony and could hardly walk. We were greeted by an old man who owned the hut we would sleep in. I hobbled into the hut and sat on a chair to recover and enjoyed a cup of tea. Brigitte was also aching from the ride but young Mabutsie seemed unaffected by the long ride. Dinner was again enjoyable, made up of meatballs in a sauce poured over some cooked maize meal with a local herb. A double bed was made up for Brigitte and I, with a mattress on the floor for Mabutsie. The bed was comfortable, but with my body aching from the ride it was a long night as I only managed to get a few hours sleep.
Day 4
That morning over breakfast we discussed the possibility of shortening our return ride as I was still uncomfortable and didn’t feel up to getting in the saddle. We had a 4 hour ride back to the starting point and we ended up riding for an hour back to the dirt road where Brigitte, Mabutsie and I were left in a shady spot while Jacob and Dane took the ponies back to where Dane could collect the Landrover and come back for us. This was a great result and we enjoyed some time on the side of the road where some local kids curious to the fact that we appeared abandoned, came and talked to us in English that was pretty good considering the remoteness of the area. They were happy to practice their English that was being taught to them at school and excited about having their photos taken and then to look at themselves on the camera LCD screen. Shortly after 11am, Dane appeared in the Landover and we climbed aboard and were taken back to Molumong Lodge for a scrumptious lunch before our long drive back into South Africa through Black Mountain Pass and Sani Pass. At the Lesotho border post we stopped for a quick alcoholic beverage at the highest pub in Southern Africa before continuing on and arriving back at Sani Lodge for dinner. It had been a great adventure and I was nearly walking normally again......................
Day 1
We were collected at Sani Lodge in the morning by Dane in a blue Landrover where we were camping and had based ourselves. We were the only participants for this pony trek. Our drive up Sani Pass through the NKOMOZANA valley offered us spectacular views along the windy road with many hair pin bends. Our first stop was the South African border post followed by the Lesotho Border Post about 5Km further up the pass. It was a cloudy day and when we got out at the Lesotho border post we were greeted by a chilly breeze and about 6 Cape Vultures circling nearby in the sky. Was this a warning sign of what was to come?
After a stop for lunch alongside Sani River not far from the border post, we continued further into Lesotho over Black Mountain Pass (KOFISEPHOLA – meaning ‘the cold place’) along a well worn gravel road. The scenery was rolling mountains scattered with small villages, cattle, sheep, goats and very friendly locals. We stopped at Mulomong Lodge in the afternoon and met our local guide, Jacob Bogang and the Basuto Ponies that would take us to our destination and back. We mounted our ponies and enjoyed about an hour’s ride into Libibing Village where Augustina, a teacher invited us into her home. We were first given tea and then a superb meal consisting of a fish stew, ground maize, potatoes, beans, carrots and a local green plant (pronounced Kotz-Kotz) that was similar in taste to spinach. This was washed down with some imported South African beer. After a visit to the long drop outside and display of a lightning storm in the distance with stars above us we were shown to our hut for the night where they had prepared 3 sleeping places on the floor with mattresses and blankets.
Day 2
After a good night’s sleep we were woken by a rooster that was obviously on Perth time. We had a pot of boiling water brought into our hut and enjoyed a coffee before venturing outside to watch the small African village waking up. At about 7:40am kids started exiting the huts dressed in their school uniforms and headed off in the direction of where the school was located. For inhabitants that have no electricity, flushing toilets or running water it was something else to see the kids wearing clean uniforms and polished black school shoes heading off to school with so much enthusiasm. Not long after the children had disappeared over a hill, our host Augustina said farewell and also headed off to the school where she was teaching on foot.
After some cereal for breakfast Jacob soon had the ponies saddled and we were on our way. We headed out of the village, over hills and eventually along the MAKHUPUNA VALLEY. The ponies were unbelievably sure footed up and down steep slopes, across rivers and on the edge of cliffs. My knees soon started to feel the strain of leaning back or forward to assist the pony as it tried not to lose its footing. The scenery along the way was breathtaking as we passed other small villages, shepherds with their goats and cattle and crops of maize and wheat cut into the steep slopes. Jacob pointed out a very healthy crop of cannabis growing on the slopes that is harvested and commonly smuggled into South Africa over the mountains. Sometimes the shepherds could be seen silhouetted against the skyline on cliff tops looking down on us passing them in the valley. As we went further into the valley we came across many Shepherd Huts (MOTEBO’s). Those that were being used often had 2 or more giant dogs tied to long ropes guarding the MOTEBO while the shepherd was away looking after the animals. Dane informed us that these dogs were vicious and although tied would not let anyone near the MOTEBO. Any dog that wasn’t tied was most likely a used for hunting and less of a threat for attacking someone. The shepherds we came across appeared friendly and always had time to chat with our guide Jacob. They were daunting in appearance wrapped in a dark blankets, wearing balaclavas, gum boots and carrying their traditional sticks decorated with colourful beads. I had the opportunity to hold one of these sticks made of a black wood and was surprised at how heavy they were. Late that afternoon we arrived at a MOTEBO that was to be ours for the night. When I slid off my pony, it took some time for me to walk properly due to the pain in my knees and legs. Now I know why John Wayne walked funny in those old Western movies. Nearby was another MOTEBO where both Dane and Jacob would sleep. The MOTEBOs are dark and small with an entrance so tiny I had difficulty in getting inside. After we had cleaned out the cattle dung that had somehow found its way into the MOTEBO we laid out a ground sheet on the hard mud floor and prepared our sleeping places. Our mattresses were made up of a blanket and sleeping bag. Dinner was some chicken pieces cooked the previous day by Jacob’s wife and traditional bread cooked in a pot. It was delicious and it was a great end to a fairly tiring days ride.
Day 3
The next morning we were up early so that we could get an early start to what was going to be a long day in the saddle. I was riddled with itchy bites and assumed that the fleas from the Shepherds dogs had found a new host. Neither Brigitte or Mabutsie had any bites. The weather was clear and after a coffee and some cereal we were in the saddle and on our way towards THABANA NTLENYANA ( meaning ‘pretty little mountain’) at 7:30am. At about 11am we got to the end of the valley at the base of THABANA NTLENYANA. There was no clear pathway up to the summit so we had to zig zag up the side to try and make it easier for the ponies to get us to the top. Once again I was impressed at the strength and sure footedness of these strong Basuto Ponies. At the summit we had 360 degree views, on the one side into South Africa and on the other side back into Lesotho. There was a fresh breeze while we had a light lunch and took in the incredible views. I was also pleased to rest my aching legs and the ponies were probably glad to have got rid of their riders for a while. When we headed back down we walked the ponies down the steep slope until we got to the flat section at the top of the valley. We got back into the saddles and were on our way back down the valley. At 6:30pm, as it was getting dark we arrived at MAKHUPUNA Village for the night. I slid off my pony in agony and could hardly walk. We were greeted by an old man who owned the hut we would sleep in. I hobbled into the hut and sat on a chair to recover and enjoyed a cup of tea. Brigitte was also aching from the ride but young Mabutsie seemed unaffected by the long ride. Dinner was again enjoyable, made up of meatballs in a sauce poured over some cooked maize meal with a local herb. A double bed was made up for Brigitte and I, with a mattress on the floor for Mabutsie. The bed was comfortable, but with my body aching from the ride it was a long night as I only managed to get a few hours sleep.
Day 4
That morning over breakfast we discussed the possibility of shortening our return ride as I was still uncomfortable and didn’t feel up to getting in the saddle. We had a 4 hour ride back to the starting point and we ended up riding for an hour back to the dirt road where Brigitte, Mabutsie and I were left in a shady spot while Jacob and Dane took the ponies back to where Dane could collect the Landrover and come back for us. This was a great result and we enjoyed some time on the side of the road where some local kids curious to the fact that we appeared abandoned, came and talked to us in English that was pretty good considering the remoteness of the area. They were happy to practice their English that was being taught to them at school and excited about having their photos taken and then to look at themselves on the camera LCD screen. Shortly after 11am, Dane appeared in the Landover and we climbed aboard and were taken back to Molumong Lodge for a scrumptious lunch before our long drive back into South Africa through Black Mountain Pass and Sani Pass. At the Lesotho border post we stopped for a quick alcoholic beverage at the highest pub in Southern Africa before continuing on and arriving back at Sani Lodge for dinner. It had been a great adventure and I was nearly walking normally again......................