Giants Cup Trail
The Giant's Cup Trail runs along the foothills of the Drakensberg in South Africa from Sani Pass to Bushman's Nek. It is a 5 day trek with 5 huts along the way, each able to accommodate 30 people. We had booked in advance from Australia expecting the trail to be popular and possibly crowded.
Day 1
We had based ourselves at Sani Lodge knowing that there was a trail from the lodge that would intercept the Giants Cup Trail near the beginning and only shortening the trail by about 4Km. We were up early after camping at the lodge. It had rained during the night and the weather looked overcast and bleak as we packed all our camping gear into the van we had hired. The lodge was happy for us to leave the van in their grounds while we were trekking as we had booked another few nights camping after our return. After a breakfast which included fruit juice, cereal, yogurt, muffins, fried eggs, bacon, toast and tea or coffee for a price equivalent to $8 AUD we set off with our relatively light backpacks from the lodge. We didn’t have to carry tents or our lightweight inflatable mattresses. Initially we had a steep climb until we reached the escarpment of a small mountain. After about 1.5 hours we came across the Giants Cup Trail with the distinctive painted white feet as markers for this particular trail. We had maps but were relieved to eventually come across the trail as we had become concerned that we might be heading in the wrong direction. Although overcast the mountains around us were magnificent and with a totally different formation that is commonly seen in other countries. It was also very green with the rainy season coming to an end. It was an easy first day and when we came upon PHOLELA HUT after about 5 hours walking we were pleasantly surprised. It was an old farm house with about 4 rooms with bunk beds. It had a shower with hot water and flushing toilets and was located in a camping area with a small office where we registered for the trek. There was a family with young kids that had occupied one of the rooms for the night as a birthday party treat for one of the kids. We hardly heard them as after we had our unexciting camping dinner of Cous-Cous and tuna we were quickly asleep.
Day 2
We had a slow start in the morning and just before we got onto the trail at 9am we saw some adults with kids walking past with backpacks and head off onto the Giants Cup Trail. We later caught up to them on the trail when they were resting and established that they were 3 families with their kids just doing an overnight trek to the next hut and back. Not long after being on the trail we spotted a small group of Eland in the distance. These are one of the largest antelope found in South Africa and are often seen around the Drakensberg area having no real predators to worry about other than humans. There are leopard in the area but these antelope are too large for them. There are smaller antelope and baboons for the leopard to prey on. The weather on this day cleared and we had a warm day as we got further into the trek. The views were again spectacular with there being the odd wild flower still around and Proteas still flowering as well. The 3 families got to Mzimkhulwana Hut before us and once again we were impressed with the hut facilities of hot water showers and flushing toilets. A small river flowed close to the hut and we found a small deep pool where we were able to have a swim in the icy but refreshing water. After a not so great Macaroni and cheese dinner we were soon asleep in preparation for an early start the next morning,
Day 3
We were up early courtesy of the alarm in my mobile and we bid the families goodbye just after 7am. It was a long day ahead and the weather was good. We came across no one on today’s walk except for large troops of baboons. We would often hear their loud barks echoing in the valley before we would see them. They never came near us but would watch us until we were out of sight. It was early afternoon when there was the threat of a storm brewing overhead. At this time of the year it is common for thunder storms and most afternoons the clouds would collect on the mountain tops. Sometimes this would result in a magnificent electric storm or sometimes they would evaporate away. We came to the crest of a hill and saw a group of huts in the distance that we hoped was Winterhoek Huts. As we neared them the first few drops of rain started to fall so we picked up the pace even though we were equipped with our wet weather gear. We arrived to a deserted group of huts and quickly selected one for us that had 3 double bunks. We had been given the code for the combination locks that were fitted to the doors on the hut. Fortunately the same code was used for all the huts along the trail. I had the code stored in my phone as it is well known that my memory cannot be relied upon. Winterhoek huts consisted of 7 huts, 5 that slept 6 people, 1 a kitchen and the last, male and female toilets with cold showers. No hot water this time but still amazing facilities. This night we had the entire camp to ourselves and as the huts were not lockable from the inside I resorted to jamming my hiking stick under the door handle. This was probably totally unnecessary but I didn’t want any surprises. The troops of baboons around might know how to open a door?????
Day 4
No storm eventuated the previous evening and once again we were up early to get going before it got warm. On average the day temperatures were about 24 degrees however at some places we were greeted with a refreshing cool breeze and at other spots it would be still and hot. Today’s trek started off with a steep climb onto an escarpment where we came across a Tarn ( a large pool of water). The water in the Tarn was crystal clear but because it was not flowing we didn’t risk filling up our water bottles with it. Most streams coming off the sides of the mountains offered us icy cold clear water and was safe to drink. Any rivers passing through human habitation or farming areas is a potential risk. Nearly the entire trail was abundant in fresh bacteria free water. I write this alive and therefore testimony to this theory. Today’s walk was short in time but tiring due to the long climb early in the morning. We arrived at Swinman hut before midday. This was an old house and we were surprised to find it locked and absent of the combination locks. I found a separate small house around the back that appeared to be lived in. I knocked on the door and was greeted by an African gentleman who quickly got a bunch of keys and opened the main house up for us. He appeared to be employed with the Kwa Zulu Natal Parks Board and probably looked after the house. After a small snack for lunch we found Peppermint Pools nearby that we had been told about and all enjoyed a swim with the mountains surrounding us. The water was chilly, but once you overcame the shock and pain of the cold it was really refreshing. Of course at my age the threat of my heart stopping with the shock is always a RISK! That evening there was some thunder and light rain but no electric storm. A hot shower was again available in the house...luxury
Day 5
According to our information today’s walk should have been easier than Day 4. We set off early again and with the weather looking pretty good. We had lots of up and down coming across many small waterfalls in the ravines. We were looking out for a cave on our map named, LANGALIBALELE cave. We were keen not to miss it as it had bushman paintings on the walls from the San Tribes of way back. We came across it just before 11am and were impressed at the figures painted in a red on the side of the rock just inside the entrance to the cave. You could almost visualise these very small people sitting around the sandy cave floor going about their primitive ways so many years previously. After some photos we were back on the trail and we were all very exhausted when we eventually arrived at Bushmans Nek Hut in the afternoon. Today’s walk that should have been shorter in time and distance than the previous day, had resulted in being 1 hour longer. The hut was empty and we selected one of the 4 rooms for ourselves and once again enjoyed the hut to ourselves for the night. With mobile reception at the hut I contacted the person I had arranged to collect us the next morning and confirmed our pick up for 9am. Our pick up point was only a 30 minute walk from the hut. As the sun started to go down we could hear the baboons barking in the valley as if telling us that we were being watched.
Last Day
We had a leisurely sleep in and around 7:45am set off from the hut towards the last 1 or 2 kilometres to our pick up point that was a trading store near the offices of the Kwa Zulu Natal Parks Board office and public camping area. It was another clear day and we were looking forward to a decent cooked meal back at Sani Lodge that evening. At the Trading Store I met a Caucasian South Afican Police Captain (Tinus) and had a chat with him. Our lift soon arrived in a Landrover and we were heading back to civilisation. Our driver, Matthew was an interesting person who had grown up in Lesotho and now lived in Underberg where his sons were farming nearby. He was knowledgeable on so many different things that it was a pity our ride with him was so short, He was a member of a group studying the Bushman paintings and was a bit of an expert on flowers in the area. We arrived back at Sani Lodge and started to think about the next day when we were to start the 4 day pony trek in Lesotho......
Day 1
We had based ourselves at Sani Lodge knowing that there was a trail from the lodge that would intercept the Giants Cup Trail near the beginning and only shortening the trail by about 4Km. We were up early after camping at the lodge. It had rained during the night and the weather looked overcast and bleak as we packed all our camping gear into the van we had hired. The lodge was happy for us to leave the van in their grounds while we were trekking as we had booked another few nights camping after our return. After a breakfast which included fruit juice, cereal, yogurt, muffins, fried eggs, bacon, toast and tea or coffee for a price equivalent to $8 AUD we set off with our relatively light backpacks from the lodge. We didn’t have to carry tents or our lightweight inflatable mattresses. Initially we had a steep climb until we reached the escarpment of a small mountain. After about 1.5 hours we came across the Giants Cup Trail with the distinctive painted white feet as markers for this particular trail. We had maps but were relieved to eventually come across the trail as we had become concerned that we might be heading in the wrong direction. Although overcast the mountains around us were magnificent and with a totally different formation that is commonly seen in other countries. It was also very green with the rainy season coming to an end. It was an easy first day and when we came upon PHOLELA HUT after about 5 hours walking we were pleasantly surprised. It was an old farm house with about 4 rooms with bunk beds. It had a shower with hot water and flushing toilets and was located in a camping area with a small office where we registered for the trek. There was a family with young kids that had occupied one of the rooms for the night as a birthday party treat for one of the kids. We hardly heard them as after we had our unexciting camping dinner of Cous-Cous and tuna we were quickly asleep.
Day 2
We had a slow start in the morning and just before we got onto the trail at 9am we saw some adults with kids walking past with backpacks and head off onto the Giants Cup Trail. We later caught up to them on the trail when they were resting and established that they were 3 families with their kids just doing an overnight trek to the next hut and back. Not long after being on the trail we spotted a small group of Eland in the distance. These are one of the largest antelope found in South Africa and are often seen around the Drakensberg area having no real predators to worry about other than humans. There are leopard in the area but these antelope are too large for them. There are smaller antelope and baboons for the leopard to prey on. The weather on this day cleared and we had a warm day as we got further into the trek. The views were again spectacular with there being the odd wild flower still around and Proteas still flowering as well. The 3 families got to Mzimkhulwana Hut before us and once again we were impressed with the hut facilities of hot water showers and flushing toilets. A small river flowed close to the hut and we found a small deep pool where we were able to have a swim in the icy but refreshing water. After a not so great Macaroni and cheese dinner we were soon asleep in preparation for an early start the next morning,
Day 3
We were up early courtesy of the alarm in my mobile and we bid the families goodbye just after 7am. It was a long day ahead and the weather was good. We came across no one on today’s walk except for large troops of baboons. We would often hear their loud barks echoing in the valley before we would see them. They never came near us but would watch us until we were out of sight. It was early afternoon when there was the threat of a storm brewing overhead. At this time of the year it is common for thunder storms and most afternoons the clouds would collect on the mountain tops. Sometimes this would result in a magnificent electric storm or sometimes they would evaporate away. We came to the crest of a hill and saw a group of huts in the distance that we hoped was Winterhoek Huts. As we neared them the first few drops of rain started to fall so we picked up the pace even though we were equipped with our wet weather gear. We arrived to a deserted group of huts and quickly selected one for us that had 3 double bunks. We had been given the code for the combination locks that were fitted to the doors on the hut. Fortunately the same code was used for all the huts along the trail. I had the code stored in my phone as it is well known that my memory cannot be relied upon. Winterhoek huts consisted of 7 huts, 5 that slept 6 people, 1 a kitchen and the last, male and female toilets with cold showers. No hot water this time but still amazing facilities. This night we had the entire camp to ourselves and as the huts were not lockable from the inside I resorted to jamming my hiking stick under the door handle. This was probably totally unnecessary but I didn’t want any surprises. The troops of baboons around might know how to open a door?????
Day 4
No storm eventuated the previous evening and once again we were up early to get going before it got warm. On average the day temperatures were about 24 degrees however at some places we were greeted with a refreshing cool breeze and at other spots it would be still and hot. Today’s trek started off with a steep climb onto an escarpment where we came across a Tarn ( a large pool of water). The water in the Tarn was crystal clear but because it was not flowing we didn’t risk filling up our water bottles with it. Most streams coming off the sides of the mountains offered us icy cold clear water and was safe to drink. Any rivers passing through human habitation or farming areas is a potential risk. Nearly the entire trail was abundant in fresh bacteria free water. I write this alive and therefore testimony to this theory. Today’s walk was short in time but tiring due to the long climb early in the morning. We arrived at Swinman hut before midday. This was an old house and we were surprised to find it locked and absent of the combination locks. I found a separate small house around the back that appeared to be lived in. I knocked on the door and was greeted by an African gentleman who quickly got a bunch of keys and opened the main house up for us. He appeared to be employed with the Kwa Zulu Natal Parks Board and probably looked after the house. After a small snack for lunch we found Peppermint Pools nearby that we had been told about and all enjoyed a swim with the mountains surrounding us. The water was chilly, but once you overcame the shock and pain of the cold it was really refreshing. Of course at my age the threat of my heart stopping with the shock is always a RISK! That evening there was some thunder and light rain but no electric storm. A hot shower was again available in the house...luxury
Day 5
According to our information today’s walk should have been easier than Day 4. We set off early again and with the weather looking pretty good. We had lots of up and down coming across many small waterfalls in the ravines. We were looking out for a cave on our map named, LANGALIBALELE cave. We were keen not to miss it as it had bushman paintings on the walls from the San Tribes of way back. We came across it just before 11am and were impressed at the figures painted in a red on the side of the rock just inside the entrance to the cave. You could almost visualise these very small people sitting around the sandy cave floor going about their primitive ways so many years previously. After some photos we were back on the trail and we were all very exhausted when we eventually arrived at Bushmans Nek Hut in the afternoon. Today’s walk that should have been shorter in time and distance than the previous day, had resulted in being 1 hour longer. The hut was empty and we selected one of the 4 rooms for ourselves and once again enjoyed the hut to ourselves for the night. With mobile reception at the hut I contacted the person I had arranged to collect us the next morning and confirmed our pick up for 9am. Our pick up point was only a 30 minute walk from the hut. As the sun started to go down we could hear the baboons barking in the valley as if telling us that we were being watched.
Last Day
We had a leisurely sleep in and around 7:45am set off from the hut towards the last 1 or 2 kilometres to our pick up point that was a trading store near the offices of the Kwa Zulu Natal Parks Board office and public camping area. It was another clear day and we were looking forward to a decent cooked meal back at Sani Lodge that evening. At the Trading Store I met a Caucasian South Afican Police Captain (Tinus) and had a chat with him. Our lift soon arrived in a Landrover and we were heading back to civilisation. Our driver, Matthew was an interesting person who had grown up in Lesotho and now lived in Underberg where his sons were farming nearby. He was knowledgeable on so many different things that it was a pity our ride with him was so short, He was a member of a group studying the Bushman paintings and was a bit of an expert on flowers in the area. We arrived back at Sani Lodge and started to think about the next day when we were to start the 4 day pony trek in Lesotho......